Ultramarine
from lapis lazuli · Na8[Al6Si6O24]S3
The name. Ultramarine is Latin for “beyond the sea”. In medieval Europe, the pigment had to literally come from beyond the sea — specifically across the Mediterranean from the mines of Afghanistan. The word first shows up in Italian artists' manuals around 1400, in Cennino Cennini's Il Libro dell'Arte, where he calls it “the most perfect colour one could find.”
Where it came from. For most of the Middle Ages there was effectively one source on Earth: the Sar-i Sang mines in the Hindu Kush mountains of northeastern Afghanistan. The raw stone travelled west along the Silk Road, through Persian and Arab traders, onto ships in the eastern Mediterranean, and finally into the workshops of Venice, Paris and Bruges. By the time a lump of it reached a French scriptorium, it had been handled by dozens of people across six thousand kilometres.
The cost. Extracting the pure blue was hideously slow. The crushed stone was kneaded with wax, resin and oil into a dough, then repeatedly washed in lye — only the deepest, purest particles came out on the first wash, and each successive wash yielded weaker grades. A pound of top-grade ultramarine could cost more than a pound of gold. In the 19th century, just before it was finally synthesised, Parisian dealers were asking up to 5,000 francs for a single pound. Medieval contracts sometimes specified, to the gram, how much ultramarine a painter was allowed to use — and most of it went on the robes of the Virgin Mary.